RandomFix https://www.randomfixworld.com We are randomfix world Mon, 07 Oct 2019 05:46:30 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.2.4 https://www.randomfixworld.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/cropped-random-fix-logo-2x-min-1-32x32.png RandomFix https://www.randomfixworld.com 32 32 How to do a Basic Drive Cycle https://www.randomfixworld.com/how-to-do-a-basic-drive-cycle/ https://www.randomfixworld.com/how-to-do-a-basic-drive-cycle/#respond Mon, 07 Oct 2019 05:11:32 +0000 http://www.randomfixworld.com/?p=523 RandomFix
How to do a Basic Drive Cycle

The PCM or powertrain control module of a vehicle uses a certain method as drive cycle to find out if an emissions system repair is successfully done. This method involves a special test drive as if driving to work by duplicating the scenario of the driver from starting a car and going for a short […]

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How to do a Basic Drive Cycle

The PCM or powertrain control module of a vehicle uses a certain method as drive cycle to find out if an emissions system repair is successfully done. This method involves a special test drive as if driving to work by duplicating the scenario of the driver from starting a car and going for a short trip on a freeway. A series of tests by the engine computer runs to see if the emissions system is properly working.

 

Drive Cycle  and its purpose

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The PCM or powertrain control module records the fault code and emission system problem signaled by the Service Engine Soon Light or the Check Engine. The Service Engine Soon Light or the Check Engine is triggered when the emission system has a problem. The indicated problem by the fault code must be diagnosed and repaired accurately.

 

There will be a series of tests following the repair, fault code cleared, to find out if the repair effectively fixed the problem and if the emissions systems are properly running. You’ll know they do when they the emissions released in the atmosphere from the vehicle are minimized. The design of this process was made to keep the vehicle from slipping through with a problem in an emissions test. The Emissions Readiness Monitors and Drive Cycle have mostly stopped an unethical tactic used until 1996 where the Check Engine Light is turned off by clearing the code prior to the emissions test.

 

The Basic Drive Cycle, Performed!

How do you do the basic Drive cycle? Here are step-by-step guidelines that are effective to complete the readiness monitors for the emissions control system of your vehicle.

 

First step: Getting your vehicle prepared

Have your tank filled, not completely full and avoid having your fuel tank nearly empty or most of the test will not run.. Have it around 30% to 70% full. Some systems need to have a specific fuel level, just like the EVAP system.

Drive cycle, How to do a Basic Drive Cycle, We are RandomFix World

You need a strong battery and a good alternator to keep you from jump-starting. This would mean that your PCM or powertrain control module is erased along with data tracking the results from the Drive Cycle Stages. Some tests won’t run with an undercharged or a weak battery.

 

Make sure that your vehicle would rest in an environment that’s less than 90 degrees Fahrenheit or at least let it sit for 8 hours.To establish an accurate baseline for the test, the air temperature needs to match the outside temperature. The EVAP system won’t even run if the fuel gets too volatile due to the outside temperature that is over 90 degrees Fahrenheit.

 

Make sure to close the doors and leave the keys out of the ignition when you leave your vehicle to sit all night. Onboard computers may ‘boot up’ when keys are in the ignition. Even the computers could still run until the doors of your vehicle are closed. Both have to be checked before leaving the vehicle.

 

Second step: Cold start

Here, you need to start your vehicle and let it stay in Park or Neutral, idle for around two to three minutes. While your vehicle idles, turn your headlights ON along with the defroster/heater, and the rear defroster from three to five minutes as a warm-up. The idle speed should be left alone until it gets to the normal speed.

 

Put your vehicle in gear, driving it through the city with a speed of around 25 mph. Let it go up to 35-40 mph a few times before you slow down and make a full stop. Don’t roll, you really have to stop the car just like what was taught in the driving school. Normally accelerate in every stop you make without being too fast or too slow.

 

Third step: Short Trip on the Freeway

 

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Now that you’re done having your vehicle cold start and a few miles drive in the streets, take it out for a short freeway trip. Enter on-ramp when you’re the freeway, giving enough room with enough space from other vehicles allowing you to do a ½ to ⅓ throttle acceleration to the speed of the freeway.

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Upon 60 mph acceleration, merge into the traffic safely. Make sure that you stay in the slow lane. You should maintain speed around 55-60 mph in the slow lane in 5 miles minimum. It would be advisable to maintain your speed by using the cruise control.

 

You must find a nice ramp that’s long enough to exit the freeway. While exiting your foot should be off of the accelerator, letting the vehicle coast down until it stops under its power while exiting completely from the freeway. Do not shift gears and don’t use the foot brake either until you reach the very end of this phase.

 

Fourth step: More driving in the city

now, you have completed the trip on the freeway. It’s time to drive through the streets in the city and repeat what you did in the second part of the Second step.

 

You should go up to around 35 to 40 mph for a few times and maintain the city speed of 25 mph prior to slowing to a stop. Like the previous stops you’ve been making, don’t toll through the stop and normally accelerate your vehicle.

Pull into your choice of parking space and let the engine idle for around two to three minutes before you shut it off.

 

Fifth step: Readiness Monitors, checked and verified

Go to a local auto shop and have them re-check your readiness monitors, pending codes, and present codes. This is done for free as a courtesy.

 

If there are no pending codes and your monitors are ready, your vehicle is repaired properly, ready for a normal drive and an emissions inspection.

How did your basic drive cycle go? Want to see it video? Check out this amazing video where as the vehicle monitors are set under 10 miles.

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Drive Cycle Won’t Complete, Tips on How to Deal with Drive Cycle Issues https://www.randomfixworld.com/drive-cycle-wont-complete-tips-on-how-to-deal-with-drive-cycle-issues/ https://www.randomfixworld.com/drive-cycle-wont-complete-tips-on-how-to-deal-with-drive-cycle-issues/#respond Mon, 07 Oct 2019 05:09:42 +0000 http://www.randomfixworld.com/?p=519 RandomFix
Drive Cycle Won’t Complete, Tips on How to Deal with Drive Cycle Issues

You’ve recently read about How to do A Basic Drive Cycle on a previous article. But what if the basic drive cycle didn’t work? Continue reading and find out more about what you should do if the drive cycle won’t complete. First step: The vehicle preparation You must do a double check on the preparation […]

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Drive Cycle Won’t Complete, Tips on How to Deal with Drive Cycle Issues

You’ve recently read about How to do A Basic Drive Cycle on a previous article. But what if the basic drive cycle didn’t work?

Continue reading and find out more about what you should do if the drive cycle won’t complete.

First step: The vehicle preparation

Drive Cycle Won't Complete, Drive Cycle Won’t Complete, Tips on How to Deal with Drive Cycle Issues, We are RandomFix World

You must do a double check on the preparation of the vehicle. Fill your fuel tank for just 30 to 70 percent of fuel capacity. This needs checking out since some systems require a specific range or level of fuel to trust the tests like the EVAP system. Basic tests may not run if the fuel tank is either below 30 percent or more than 70 percent.

You also need to watch out for a good battery and  alternator to avoid the occasional jump-start. This jump-start might cause the PCM or powertrain control module memory to be erased along with the results gathered through the various stages of the Drive Cycle. The important tests might not also run if the battery is uncharged or weak.

Letting the vehicle sit overnight or 8 hours minimum would help prepare the vehicle for the drive cycle as you did previously when you initially performed the drive cycle. Let it sit in an environment for less than 90 degrees Fahrenheit to ensure that engine and air temperature matches. This helps in establishing an accurate baseline for the test later. The fuel would be too volatile if the temperature is higher than 90 degrees F. And though some emissions systems may run, the EVAP won’t run its tests in this case.

This mostly recalls to what you’ve already done in the initial drive cycle, making sure that the keys are out of the ignition and closing all the doors. This is to ensure that the onboard computers are off when you leave your vehicle. Some of the computers in your vehicle might boot up when you forget to get the keys out of your ignition.

Second step: Basic Drive Cycle must be repeated

Drive Cycle Won't Complete, Drive Cycle Won’t Complete, Tips on How to Deal with Drive Cycle Issues, We are RandomFix World

Faithfully follow the rulebook on performing the Basic Drive Cycle. You can surely recall how you kept the speed from 55 mph to 60 mph on the freeway, running on 5 miles minimum. Here, remember to use the cruise control to help you keep the speed and in the right lane for your own safety.

Third step: Which Drive Cycle Monitor did not complete

Take note of which one did not complete the drive cycle. When you drive to an auto shop of your own choice, they re-check your present codes, pending ones, and your readiness monitors for free as a courtesy. Your vehicle is ready for normal driving and an emissions inspection when there are no present or pending codes anymore. Take note of them if they’re not. Check if the pending code was set or if the Check Engine light is illuminated, this would mean that the auto shop who worked on your vehicle did something wrong. They must re-do the work without the charging more except for a newly diagnosed trouble code.

Fourth step: Determine which monitor needed to be prioritized

Drive Cycle Won't Complete, Drive Cycle Won’t Complete, Tips on How to Deal with Drive Cycle Issues, We are RandomFix World

Remember that there are three continuous monitors that will complete in most cases. These are for monitoring: the fuel mixture, occurrence of misfires, and the sensors.

Should the monitor for the oxygen sensor heater not be ready yet, see how many monitors are not yet ready as well. If both the catalyst and oxygen sensor monitors aren’t ready yet, the possible problem would be the weak battery. This usually happens when you have your battery for more than four years. Replace your battery and do the Drive Cycle again.

Watch closely even when your car is starting fine. You must know that PCM is hypersensitive even with the slightest battery glitch. This will cause for another suspension of the Drive Cycle, with not enough charging system and battery performance.

Say, only the oxygen sensor heater is not ready but most are ready (EGR system, oxygen sensor monitor, EVAP monitor, catalyst monitor, and secondary air system, what will likely happen? If all else is ready, in most cases, the heater monitor will eventually be ready. This could be a sign of the heater circuit that’s getting old making it one of the last to pass. But if the catalyst monitors and the oxygen sensor are ready, the heater needs to work of the two other monitors would fail and set the codes.

What if the EVAP monitor is not ready?

You can still pass even when your EVAP monitor is not ready. Most of the time, this is the last to get ready. However, if you want to fix this concern, check if your fuel cap is tight and the fuel is between ¼ to ¾ of a full tank. If the other monitors show they’re still not ready, try making a few cold starts. If in this case, your EVAP monitor still hasn’t passed, take it to a shop with familiarity on the Mode 6 Diagnosis.

Should none of the monitors set, forego taking your vehicle to your local auto shop who understands the Mode 6 Diagnosis.

How did your vehicle do on fixing the Drive cycle not completing issue? If you need to see on Video a drive cycle being completed really fast in under 10 miles, check this video out.

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Car Oil Basics: How often should you change? https://www.randomfixworld.com/car-oil-basics-how-often-should-you-change/ https://www.randomfixworld.com/car-oil-basics-how-often-should-you-change/#respond Mon, 07 Oct 2019 05:03:29 +0000 http://www.randomfixworld.com/?p=516 RandomFix
Car Oil Basics: How often should you change?

Changing your oil in regular intervals is advisable to make sure that your car is running smoothly. But how often do you really have to change your car oil? How long, either time or mileage, between the oil change. RandomFix will help you answer this simple question! The traditional oil change recommendation should be whichever comes first, […]

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Car Oil Basics: How often should you change?

Changing your oil in regular intervals is advisable to make sure that your car is running smoothly. But how often do you really have to change your car oil? How long, either time or mileage, between the oil change. RandomFix will help you answer this simple question!

The traditional oil change recommendation should be whichever comes first, every 3 months or 3,000 miles. The new standard is to change your oil every 5,000 miles to 20,000 depending on the vehicle make without worrying if your car is in optimal operating conditions.

Car Oil, Car Oil Basics: How often should you change?, We are RandomFix World

The frequency in changing your oil depends on the recommendations of your manufacturer, your car’s wear and tear experience, and your environment.

How frequent should you change oil?

There are various conditions to have an impact on your oil frequency change and we need to understand why we have to get an oil change in the first place. Dirty motor oil is less effective as many of the protective additives in the motor oil tend to lose their protective properties over time. The crankcase is filled with oil and the contaminants in dirty oil can eat into the metal parts and sludge is formed overtime when the water collects. Think about this, oil is sometimes the only barrier between two metal parts rubbing on each other but when the oil has a lot of metal shavings and particles that are way abrasive, parts of the engine wears away.

By instinct, you know that changing oil should be done regularly and at reasonable intervals. But how do we know that it’s the right time to change it? How long or in how many miles must we change the car engine oil?

Car Oil, Car Oil Basics: How often should you change?, We are RandomFix World

It’s important to keep a record of when you last changed the car oil. Some diesel engine oils appear to be pretty black a couple of days following an oil change whereas the engine oil in hybrid vehicles will look almost new even after 10,000 miles of service.  In extreme dusty and sandy conditions it advisable to change your oil 1,000 miles to prevent premature wear. The dirty oil becomes a liability for your car and can shorten your vehicles service life. By changing your car oil frequently, you may greatly extend the engine’s life and even increase the resale value to a future prospective buyer.

Changing Engine Oil Under Extreme Operating Conditions

First, let’s define extreme operating conditions. You are under an extreme operating condition when you do a lot of driving in the city and frequently do stops, going on again to hitting the road. A brilliant example would be the rush-hour traffic where your car experiences stop-and-go driving on the road. Another definition would be making multiple short trips and leaving your car running while parked on a hot day with the air condition cracked to the max. These trips never allow the vehicles even to full heat to operating temperature and can build up engine oil sludge over time.

Other reasons for increased oil changes involve towing another vehicle and super hot temperatures that exceed 100 degrees F. When either of these extreme conditions happens to you, you must change your car oil as often as 1000 up to 3000 miles on the older vehicles. For new cars, there are recommendations made by the manufacturer that should be followed under extreme car use.

Changing Engine Oil Under Optimal Operating Conditions

A car oil change can also vary on the recommendations of the car manufacturer. Some manufacturers suggest that car oil is changed every 7,500 miles or more depending on the optimum operating conditions. The obvious perks of having a newer vehicle are their ability to operate longer with the use of new synthetic motor oils. More recent research has produced motor oil of which efficiency is extended and some oil brands claiming that you only need to change your oil once a year. You might want to change your car oil for every 5000 miles or every six months depending on which one comes first, to be safe.

For less service-minded drivers, who frequently drive on the freeway and long journeys with high-speed driving, extending the interval changing your car oil can be considered, but for the new vehicles only. It’s still best if you don’t go over 5,000 miles to change. Under no circumstances should you fail to follow the recommendations made by the manufacturer for car oil change interval.

How often did you change your motor oil?

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Changing Your Car’s Oil, It’s easy! https://www.randomfixworld.com/changing-your-cars-oil-its-easy/ https://www.randomfixworld.com/changing-your-cars-oil-its-easy/#respond Mon, 07 Oct 2019 04:59:42 +0000 http://www.randomfixworld.com/?p=512 RandomFix
Changing Your Car’s Oil, It’s easy!

Changing your oil filter or your car’s oil by yourself can definitely save you big bucks. The frequency in changing your oil is usually found in your car’s manual, most owner’s manual even includes the exact quantity of motor oil needed after an oil change. You don’t need to be an expert or even a […]

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Changing Your Car’s Oil, It’s easy!

Changing your oil filter or your car’s oil by yourself can definitely save you big bucks. The frequency in changing your oil is usually found in your car’s manual, most owner’s manual even includes the exact quantity of motor oil needed after an oil change. You don’t need to be an expert or even a mechanic to change your car’s oil, it’s easy!

RandomFix will surely give you the guidelines on how to change it without a hassle. What you need to learn are the basic parts of the car and grab the right equipment you need to complete the job. With the exception of a few vehicles that have the oil drain plug or vehicle’s oil filter in a hard to reach location, changing your engine oil can be a breeze. Some DIY individuals even go so far as to state that most often you can change your engine oil faster than have to go the dealer or oil change facility.

The process in changing your oil includes draining of the existing oil that’s in your engine, replacing the oil filter, adding the new oil, making sure that there are no leaks, and testing the quality.

To start changing your oil, the gook needs to get churned up to flow easily out of the engine. Do this by warming up your vehicle’s engine for 2 to 3 minutes. The engine will be too hot to touch, it could burn your skin. You’ll know to turn the engine off when it’s slightly warm to touch already.

Car's Oil, Changing Your Car’s Oil, It’s easy!, We are RandomFix World

Here are the steps you should follow to easily change your car’s oil:

The Drain Plug

You’ve been warned earlier about learning the basic parts of a car. Locate under your car what is called a drain plug. Located at the engine bottom, under the oil pan is a plug or a large nut. If you have a hard time reaching your oil drain plug, jacking up the car or crawling underneath it will probably be a good idea. A few words of safety advice, never go under a vehicle that’s not supported by quality jack stands or a heavy duty drive-up ramp, many pros prefer the plastic ramps. It can take some skill to drive up a service ramp, I’ve included a great how-to video for ease.

Place a container just right below the oil drain plug to catch the oil. Make sure the container is big enough. Unscrewing the oil drain plug should be next. Make sure to protect your hand using paper towels or a rag and be prepared to move your hand out of the way. Shortly, the oil will drain out of the engine to the catch container.

Changing your engine oil can be a dirty job if not done correctly. Always wear proper gloves and eye protection. Some tools like a magnetic drain plug remover tool will assist in avoiding injury from the hot oil. For the catch pan, you can pick a splatter guard which will ensure your garage floor remains spotless.

Oil filler

At the top of your engine, you should remove the cap from oil filler hole and proceed by unscrewing the oil filter with the use of an oil filter wrench. Make sure you invest a quality oil filter wrench set for your vehicle. Depending on the ‘make’ of your vehicle the oil filter can be in several different locations. As a rule of thumb most European vehicle’s oil filter is normally located at the top of the engine. This makes servicing some European vehicles a dream, whereas most Asian imports, the oil filter is serviced from underneath the vehicle. Once you’ve located your oil filter, twist the filter off by turning counterclockwise. Once the oil filter is removed, make sure you have removed the oil filter gasket. If the old oil filter gasket is not removed it can cause a severe oil leak that can bring permanent engine damage.

 

TipsBe careful in removing the filter to avoid spilling the oil in it. Avoid contact with the motor oil at all time.

 

Using the drain pan, empty the oil from the filter and wrap in newspaper afterward. You may set the used engine oil aside and take it to a recycling center later along with the oil filter. Most auto parts store will also recycle used motor oil and this is normally free of cost.

New Oil

Dip your finger into a newly opened oil bottle and use it to moisten oil filter gasket that’s on the new oil filter. Screw the new filter replacing the old one into the engine. Turn it gently and follow the directions you’ll see on the filter. Do it until it ‘seats’ and give another ¾ turn. Look at the oil drain plug and wipe around it only after all of the oil has been drained out.

Car's Oil, Changing Your Car’s Oil, It’s easy!, We are RandomFix World

 

With late model vehicle the oil filter, a cartridge sits inside of oil filter housing. These late model oil filters come with a large oil ring that needs to be replaced from time to time. To look for the correct torque specification for your oil filter and drain plug, check out this Amsoil website.

 

You could use an adjustable wrench to tighten the oil drain plug when you replace it. You must remove and put a new gasket the Drain plug. Do not over torque the drain plug as most late model vehicles come equipped with an aluminum oil pan that can be damaged easily. Whenever and wherever possible use a torque wrench. Once the drain plug and oil filter are back in, you’re now ready to add fresh motor oil.

Using a quality funnel slowly pour the engine oil through the oil filler cap. Once the correct quantity of engine oil has been added proceed by tightening the oil filler cap. On some vehicle taking an oil measurement may have very inaccurate readings, so, let your engine run for about 10 to 15 seconds. Let your car sit for 5 to 10 minutes.

A few words of caution, after you’ve changed your engine oil, pay attention to all the warning lights on your instrument cluster on the first start. If you should see an oil lamp stay illuminated this could be a very bad sign. TURN OFF YOUR VEHICLE’S ENGINE IMMEDIATELY. Also, look out for any signs of low oil pressure from any of the vehicle’s systems. The oil drain plug and around the filter should be checked for leaks.

 

Dipstick

Using a clean and lint-free rag, remove the oil dipstick before shoving it back in. Again, pull it out and check it, adding little oil at a time if needed. The stick should be checked after you add little oil at a time ‘til you reach full line on dipstick.

You can now remove the drain pan you put earlier under the vehicle and do a test drive on your vehicle. Driving around the neighborhood a couple of times would help.

Let the oil settle down again for around 5-10 minutes, re-checking the dipstick after.

If it’s still full, you’ve just successfully changed your car’s oil! A final oil level check should be conducted only on a level surface. Some vehicles will need the oil change reminder light or message reset. Easy, right?

Remember the old oil you set aside earlier? Now you just have to bring it to an auto parts shop or the nearest oil-recycling center you know! Here a few last minute helpful tips, when you remove the oil filler cap, place it by the hood latch, that way if you forget to put it back, your hood won’t close ensuring you will not forget. I recommend doing the same with the dipstick.  There’s also another method of changing engine oil by just sucking it out. Some vehicles don’t have a dipstick and you will need to check the oil level using the driver information center.

How did you find changing your car’s oil by yourself?

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Clean The Interior Roof Of A Car! Find Out How! https://www.randomfixworld.com/clean-the-interior-roof-of-a-car-find-out-how/ https://www.randomfixworld.com/clean-the-interior-roof-of-a-car-find-out-how/#respond Mon, 07 Oct 2019 04:52:43 +0000 http://www.randomfixworld.com/?p=505 RandomFix
Clean The Interior Roof Of A Car! Find Out How!

Have you looked closely on your vehicle’s interior roof? You might notice that it covered in fabric, leather, vinyl, or any other materials for different purposes like suspending devices, insulation from the cold, or to muffle the vibrations and noise outside the car. Its covering material is better known as a headliner. The exposed part […]

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Clean The Interior Roof Of A Car! Find Out How!

Have you looked closely on your vehicle’s interior roof? You might notice that it covered in fabric, leather, vinyl, or any other materials for different purposes like suspending devices, insulation from the cold, or to muffle the vibrations and noise outside the car.

, Clean The Interior Roof Of A Car! Find Out How!, We are RandomFix World

Its covering material is better known as a headliner. The exposed part of the headliner is glued to the foam while glued to the backing is the thin foam.

The backing of the interior roof is mainly composed of a molded fibrous board or fiberglass.

You’ll need to replace the whole headliner, in case it falls apart since the interior roof is a single piece. Over time, this becomes dirty and discolored. And since the porous surface is exposed, you’ll find it alarming that it absorbs smells and retains it for days or permanently. You’ve probably just ignored thinking the smell of smoke was absorbed and forgot it altogether.

, Clean The Interior Roof Of A Car! Find Out How!, We are RandomFix World

The headliner material is more delicate than you think and, therefore, you need to be extra careful when cleaning it to avoid damage upon smell or stain removal attempt.

Let’s try three methods in cleaning the headliner:

The Minor Soiling

Here, you will need an upholstery-safe cleaner and a microfiber cloth. You can probably remember the instances when someone tossed an object inside your car and accidentally left a mark on the fabric of the headliner.

First, you need to wipe the spot using the microfiber cloth gently. Look for any loose soil stuck in the headliner and brush it off. You need to do this gently to avoid getting them deeper into the fabric. You’re lucky if the spot is not visible, otherwise, proceed in doing the second step.

, Clean The Interior Roof Of A Car! Find Out How!, We are RandomFix World

You will need to apply a cleaner in the second step. Apply it on the spot with the use of a cloth. Spray a small amount of the upholstery cleaner and saturate a small corner lightly. Wipe the headliner using the edge of your towel. Repeat it with the visible grain, if there is one, applying gentle pressure, so the cleaner only works on the headliner to remove minor stains. It doesn’t need to reach deep into the foam layer. Remove the excess wetness by blotting it with the clean and dry section of the microfiber cloth. When it’s fully dried, you start checking if you successfully removed the spot. Otherwise, continue with the next method.

 

Surface Cleaning

Surface cleaning is the second method used if the first didn’t work for you. You’ll need a bristled brush and the upholstery cleaner. Let’s deal with cleaning the whole headliner and go more in-depth this time.

First, spray the interior roof evenly using the cleaner. Pay attention to the crevices and edges. One good tip is to use an aerosol cleaner. Its foaming action helps in breaking up the dirt beneath the surface. While the pump-style liquid cleaner works, the foam still works best. Let the cleaner sit for a specified amount of time.

Then, lightly agitate the headliner’s surface using a super soft-bristled brush. Unless brushing is necessary, it is first recommended to use a soft microfiber towel. Make sure that you reach the surface of the headliner to clean evenly. When the cleaner dries, the unbrushed section will be evident.

, Clean The Interior Roof Of A Car! Find Out How!, We are RandomFix World

Depending on how much cleaner you applied, let it dry completely for about an hour or two. You may need a second treatment if the tough stains are still there.  Repeat the steps you did in the second method. If the stain persists, try the third method.

Deep Cleaning

You will need hot tap water, a deep cleaning system, and a stain remover. This method should always be the last resort you’ll use in cleaning the car ceiling. The moisture combined with heat will wet the glue that holds the layers together including the backing. The last method could cause permanent damage and may result in the headliner to sag and fall or may interfere in while you’re driving after getting loose.

To start, fill the clean machine with the appropriate water and cleaning solution ratio. It’s best that you always use the specific brand that your machine has specified to use. Substituting them with other brands may leave residues behind the fabric, thus causing further stains in your headliner.

Preheat if needed and wait until the machine is ready to use. Place a small upholstery adapter on the hose. Turn the machine on. Start at the corner, placing the tip of the cleaning tool on the headliner. Spray on a steady rate on the surface of the headliner fabric. Estimate your movement to be around 3-4 inches per second to keep saturating too profoundly. Increase the speed if you notice the headliner is over-soaked.

Use the strokes of roughly 24 inches when moving across the interior roof letting the next stroke overlap by half an inch from the one before it — release trigger between strokes to keep the soapy water from spraying everywhere.

Using the same technique and pace, make sure you cleaned the whole headliner while maintaining the same direction with your strokes to look good when it dries.

Expect the drying process to take the whole day. You may even use the fans and circulate the air inside your car to allow a quicker drying process. Should you choose to roll down your windows, make sure that you parked your car in a safe and climate-controlled environment.

Touch the headliner with the palm of your hands to remove the dried lines from the deep cleaner. Cleaning your headliner will bring back the fresh smell and good shape inside your car. If you’ve followed all the instructions of the three methods, seek the help of a certified mobile mechanic. Let the professionals take the challenge.

Does your interior roof need cleaning?

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Easy Way to Change Your Car’s Air Filter https://www.randomfixworld.com/easy-way-to-change-your-cars-air-filter/ https://www.randomfixworld.com/easy-way-to-change-your-cars-air-filter/#respond Sun, 06 Oct 2019 18:57:12 +0000 http://www.randomfixworld.com/?p=489 RandomFix
Easy Way to Change Your Car’s Air Filter

Do you remember your last oil change at a quick lube? The mechanic can show how dirty your air filter is and recommend for you to replace it. Simple things as changing your car’s air filter shouldn’t have cost you if you only know how to do it. It’s simple and will save you money […]

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Easy Way to Change Your Car’s Air Filter

Do you remember your last oil change at a quick lube? The mechanic can show how dirty your air filter is and recommend for you to replace it. Simple things as changing your car’s air filter shouldn’t have cost you if you only know how to do it. It’s simple and will save you money in the future in case you need to replace your air filter again.

 

Having your oil changed would have cost you $20. Imagine paying double for an extra air filter replacement. Air filters cost $10 only for most vehicles. Shops charge you a standard rate even for simple services you could do yourself.  RandomFix offers a lot of DIYs on our channel and on the site itself! With the price of charge, you’d think the shop uses tools that only mechanics can use. Think again.

 

This DIY replacement project is one of the easiest maintenance jobs you can perform for your vehicle. It’ll only take a minute that doesn’t require special tools.

 

You could always start changing your oil then proceed to replace your air filter. Doing things by yourself (safely) could help you save money that you can allocate on more important things.

 

What is an air filter?

 

The engine will need lots of clean air to run. When the air mixes with gas, the spark plug gives a spark resulting in combustion. If you want to run your engine efficiently, you need to make sure that it takes in clean air. The problem arises when the air filter is clogged and doesn’t allow for proper air flow. Driving with a dirty air filter can decrease your fuel economy since it full of junk and debris.

 

Imagine all the dirt, dust, salt, and bird feathers that your engine can suck in to create a controlled explosion to move your motor. You don’t want any of these stuff in your engine

Air filters are located right before the intake manifold of the engine. Most are rectangular by shape while the older cars have air filters shaped like a donut. It is made up of paper-like, porous material that is folded similarly like an accordion.

 

They prevent the particulates and dirt from getting through and only allows the clean air to pass.

 

Why change your air filter?

, Easy Way to Change Your Car’s Air Filter, We are RandomFix World

Fuel Efficiency

 

You need to replace your air filter regularly to increase your car’s fuel efficiency. Logging in thousands of miles can get the screen dirty and clogged. It would be hard for the air to pass off the dirt and other particulates block it from entering the engine. When air is not enough, your engine will compensate by using more fuel to run your engine. Save money and change your filter regularly.

 

Extended Engine Life

 

Despite the size and power of an engine, they can be susceptible to small particles and dirt. The dirt and particles will accumulate and cause severe damage to the internal parts of the engine. Spending a $10 for a new air filter is so much better than wasting thousands of dollars for a new engine.

 

Reduced Emission

 

The reduced airflow messes with the emission control systems of your car and spews more bad stuff in the atmosphere than it usually does. And we know these chemicals won’t do anything good for our environment.

 

How often is ‘regularly’?

You need to change your air filter around every 12 months or 12,000 miles depending on which comes first. Do it more frequently when you live in a neighborhood or area that you know is dusty.

 

Make sure to check it every time you change your oil. Look for the specifics on your owner’s manual to change for make and the model.

 

Now that we’ve learned so much about air filters, it’s time to learn how to do the replacement!

 

Buy A New Air Filter

 

Air filters are cheap, only $10 to $13 in an auto parts store or maybe in the grocery at Walmart. Once you’ve checked your owner’s manual or the list hanging off a shelf in the store you will determine the year, make, and the model of your car. Then you will find out what parts you need for it.

 

Air Filter Box

 

Next, you should open your hood and locate the air filter box. It’s the plastic box on the side or top of your engine. It usually has a large hose that sticks out of its side. Open the box and remove the air filter along with the dirt that lodged in it.

 

The New Air Filter

, Easy Way to Change Your Car’s Air Filter, We are RandomFix World

 

Look at the old filter and see the inside folds where there are gunk and dirt that accumulated. Vacuum the air filter box before installing the new air filter. Time for a new one! Put in the new filter in the filter box and let it sit snugly inside. Close the box and snap the metal clips.

 

Well done! Your car will no longer gasp for air.

 

Do you think your air filter needs changing?

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Changing Your Cabin Air Filter? It’s Simple! https://www.randomfixworld.com/changing-your-cabin-air-filter-its-simple/ https://www.randomfixworld.com/changing-your-cabin-air-filter-its-simple/#respond Sun, 06 Oct 2019 16:40:15 +0000 http://www.randomfixworld.com/?p=477 RandomFix
Changing Your Cabin Air Filter? It’s Simple!

While an air filter cleans air going into the engine to mix with the fuel and then a spark, cabin air filter cleans the air that comes into the car, blown to the cockpit or cabin. Often, you will find pollen filters inside the car underneath or behind the glove box. The owner’s service manual […]

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RandomFix
Changing Your Cabin Air Filter? It’s Simple!

While an air filter cleans air going into the engine to mix with the fuel and then a spark, cabin air filter cleans the air that comes into the car, blown to the cockpit or cabin. Often, you will find pollen filters inside the car underneath or behind the glove box.

The owner’s service manual will verify that your car has a cabin air filter and will tell you where to find it. In some cars, they call it ‘air conditioning,’ dust filter, or maybe a micro-cabin air filter. What you must know is that there are two types of cabin air filters: the odor/particulate combination filters and the particulate filters. Make a record every time you have your cabin air filter changed to know when the next change is going to happen.

RandomFix can provide you a step-by-step guide on different DIYs car repairs and advice like how to change your cabin air filter. You will save more money in doable tasks by yourself than taking your car to a mechanic.

Here is how you change your cabin air filter:

In most cases changing your cabin air filter can be this easy, open the glove box and take out everything inside. You should proceed by removing the limiting stop arm located on the right side of the glove box. Do this by sliding it off the pin.

Grasp the back and front of the glove box and squeeze them toward each other. Do this until the side clamps are popped free. Look at the faceplate to the cabin air filter channel and remove the cabin air filter.

Lift the latches on the faceplate sides. Slide it out, then open the filter compartment.

, Changing Your Cabin Air Filter? It’s Simple!, We are RandomFix World

cabin air filter2

Pull out the old cabin air filter. Be careful in pulling it out to avoid scattering any trash, dirt, or trash inside your car. Notice which way the arrows are facing while removing the filter, these arrows indicate the airflow direction.

Tidy up the chamber of the filter, then check the seals and the gaskets. Vacuum the filter chamber to make sure there are no stray contaminants. Check and make sure that the gaskets and seals don’t need replacements as well.

, Changing Your Cabin Air Filter? It’s Simple!, We are RandomFix World

Install the new cabin air filter and make sure it matches the old one. You need to make sure that the arrows on the new air filter points in the same direction as the old filter you replaced. Slide the new filter in.

Once the new cabin filter is in place, replace the faceplate and put the glove box back. Reinstall the limiting stop and put the contents you removed earlier back in the glove box. In some European or luxury vehicle, you can find the cabin air filter under the hood.

Have you tried to change your cabin air filter yet?

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Replacing Brake Rotors, Know How to Do it! https://www.randomfixworld.com/replacing-brake-rotors-know-how-to-do-it/ https://www.randomfixworld.com/replacing-brake-rotors-know-how-to-do-it/#respond Sun, 06 Oct 2019 16:01:29 +0000 http://www.randomfixworld.com/?p=448 RandomFix
Replacing Brake Rotors, Know How to Do it!

When driving your car, can you hear scraping noises, squealing, or maybe feel that your brake is pulsing? Those are the signs that your brake rotors are finally done! Most of the time, you’ll find yourself changing brake pads when replacing your brake rotors. Some rotors need to be refinished at a shop if they’re still not […]

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RandomFix
Replacing Brake Rotors, Know How to Do it!

When driving your car, can you hear scraping noises, squealing, or maybe feel that your brake is pulsing? Those are the signs that your brake rotors are finally done! Most of the time, you’ll find yourself changing brake pads when replacing your brake rotors. Some rotors need to be refinished at a shop if they’re still not worn too thin or warped yet again you will have to deal with taking your car’s wheels.

 

How and when will you replace the brake rotors?

 

All trucks, cars, SUVs have brake rotors which means they usually have four. Brake rotors are expensive. RandomFix will guide you in replacing your brake rotors! Skim them at a more inexpensive cost and make the most of the mile you use them. And since rotors are replaceable and easily disposable, they need to be replaced from 15,000 to 70,000 miles on use. This advice proves true depending on your driving style and the type of brake pads you are using.

 

While some brake pads usually wear, some have notches to be aggressive than the others. You’ll know the pads are aggressive when it makes a lot of dust. According to tests, more than 90 percent of brake dust is iron (Fe) that comes from your rotors which means that the pads that are less aggressive pad will wear less not only in terms of rotors but also with dust production. The rotor wear happens due to friction, and the friction allows for the stopping power.

 

Attached to the vehicle’s axles are metal discs called brake motors. The wheels are forced to turn slower after the driver pushes on the brake pedal, making the brake pads press on the rotor creating friction resulting in the slowed wheels. The resistance is also the reason why the disc wears out and to need resurfacing. Over time, the brake rotors will require replacement due to the excessive wear or the damage below limit along with the other factors such as the driving conditions or mileage.

 

Here’s a guide you can follow for changing your brake rotors:

, Replacing Brake Rotors, Know How to Do it!, We are RandomFix World

Replacing your brake rotors have two parts, removing the old and installing a new one.

 

Remove The Old Rotor

 

Protective Gloves, Lift Or Jack

 

Put on your protective gloves before you proceed on working your vehicle. A pair of gloves would be a wise idea to protect your hands from the grime, grease, and any possible accident.

 

Before lifting a wheel, you may want to proceed by loosening the lug nuts a little if you wish to use a jack. Use a lug wrench; the ground will hold your vehicle’s wheels from turning. When lifting one end of the car or only one wheel, you may block the other wheels to keep your vehicle from rolling. Always set your parking brake with the vehicle gearbox in engaged, park or gear. When servicing a particular wheel, you need to release its parking brake. It would be easier to use a power impact wrench or a hydraulic car lift like some of the professionals, but a hand tool and a hand-operated jack will do.

 

If the jack presses into the plastic molding or thin metal, it could bend, warp, crack or punch through surfaces. Use the jack on the sturdy and thick parts of metal on your vehicle’s undercarriage. Use a heavy duty jack. Warning: A jack can fail at any time so always use heavy duty jack stands.

 

Remove the wheel

 

The brakes along with its other components are mounted behind the wheel. Remove the wheel to gain access by unscrewing the lug nuts then pulling or lifting the wheel off. Expose the hub, rotor, and calipers. Tip: Remove the hubcap or wheel cover and use this as a dish where you can put the small parts to keep track of them. Be careful not to damage the hubcap when placing on the floor.

 

Caliper removal

 

Usually, two bolts hold the brake calipers. Threaded in the rear of the caliper are these bolts. Reach them by using an extension. The bolts could have hex-key/Allen-head, or standard hex heads, remove them and take the caliper off by hanging it out of your way with a wire or cord. Be reminded not to put tension on the brake hose. Prepare a wood block and hammer or a screwdriver to wedge and pry to remove the caliper from the rotor and caliper bracket. Note: If done correctly you do not need to bleed the brake system for a simple brake pad and rotor replacement. However, removing the brake line from the caliper means the brake will start to leak fluid out, letting the air in the lines. It needs to be bled later following the repairs to remove the air.

 

Loosen and remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts when necessary. The brackets securing the caliper can prevent rotor removal in some vehicles, you might need to use ratchet or wrench to unscrew this racket’s bolts allowing removal. They may come out hard as they possibly have some thread lock cement on them.

 

Removing the brake rotor

, Replacing Brake Rotors, Know How to Do it!, We are RandomFix World

You’re lucky if this goes off smoothly. Some rotors have not been replaced for a long time making it stuck by corrosion, rust, and dirt to the wheel hub which makes it difficult to remove. Loosen the rotors, a wooden block or hammer may be used to tap it. Do not strike the rotor directly.  Put a wooden block against a rotor and hit the wood. It would also be easier to loosen the rust and corrosion with penetrating oil.

 

Remove the Grease-packed bearings and axle bearing must (some wheels have them). You may find them in the center of the hub or the knuckle on the spindle or axle. You may need to remove the cotter pin, metal dust cap, or un-clinch the castle nut or keyed flange, and the bearing to remove the rotor. Avoid getting dirt in the bearing.

 

Clean the hub surface from any corrosion or debris for the new rotor to sit on the hub surface.

 

Install the new rotor

 

Clean protective coatings or oil from the rotor by using a particular cleaner solvent and a clean, dry cloth to wipe residues off your new rotor. Bearing grease, oil, and improper coatings or solvents may cause damage or impair brake pad performance. Make sure that you don’t use or clean brake pads that are greasy or oily. Replace them, instead.

 

Place your new rotor over the wheel hub — thread wheel studs through the corresponding holes on the rotor. Then, Push the new rotor in place around the wheel hub. Replace the castle nut or the cotter pin on the hub assembly depending on your exact wheel construction. If you bent the cotter pin previously from trying to remove it, replace it with a new one.

 

Replacing caliper mounting brackets, if:

 

If you’ve previously removed the caliper mounting brackets, return them. Secure the brackets by re-aligning them in place with the bolts you unscrewed initially. These bolts should have been put a thread locker if used on an earlier installation.

 

Compressing caliper pistons

 

You can use a caliper compressor or a C-clamp to compress caliper pistons. Proceed with caution since some caliper pistons screw in, have notches and grooves in their top face to do so. Put the caliper with spring clips and pads in their appropriate spots over the rotor. Untie/unhook the caliper from its place. Using a caliper compressor or a C-clamp, carefully compress the caliper pistons. The caliper should fit over the rotor when the pistons are compressed completely. A lot of vehicles may require slightly-opened bleeder valves to allow pistons to compress back into calipers. Forcing the brake fluid back through the lines may cause damage like anti lock brake mechanisms or in the internal check valves.

 

Tip: Slightly loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap before compressing the piston. Brake Fluid is corrosive, and it’s best to keep it away from the paint.

 

Re-installing the caliper

 

Clean the caliper slides and lube it with caliper slide grease. With suitable brake pads in place, put the caliper over the rotor the same way it did before the removal. Line up the bolt holes. Re-install the bolts you removed to take the caliper from the rotor. Almost done! Finally, re-install the wheel and lower the vehicle to the ground, carefully lifting the wheel back to its original place. The lug nuts should be screwed again over the wheel bolts.

 

Now, you can lower your vehicle carefully back to the ground. Remove the jack you may have used earlier and put it out of the way. You better give these lug nuts an extra tightening when the wheel is on the ground. Next, refill the brake fluid and pump the brakes up. Use quarter strokes to avoid the master cylinder from bottoming out until the brakes are hard enough. Recheck the fluid level and make sure to top off as necessary. You should bleed the brakes if you opened any of the brake lines.

 

Tip: Avoid using power tools to install lug nuts and always torque your wheels using a Torque wrench. Over-tightening the vehicles will can premature brake rotor wear and will warp the brake rotors.

 

Test before driving

 

Test in a safe location. Start the vehicle and roll forward. Try pumping the brakes for a few times, push down on the brake pedal. Slowly, let it rise. The brakes should function adequately without vibrations or loud squeaking. Loud squeaking means that the brake pads are worn-out while the vibration means a warped rotor. A routine road test should be in order and brakes should stop without any pulsations or noises.

 

Congratulations! Now, you’re done replacing your brake rotors!

 

Do you plan on replacing your brake rotors by yourself?

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